Thursday 30 January 2014

Blog 3. Thursday 16th to Wed 29th January. Shillong to Calcutta.

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SHILLONG-Ri Kynjai-Guwhati-Barpeta-Kokrajhai-Alipur Duar-Jalpaiguri–Siliguri-Kishanganj-Raiganj-Malda-Baharampur-Krishnanager-CALCUTTA.

Ride time: 69 HRS
Distance: 745 MILES
Total distance: 1,238 MILES

From leaving the hill top town of Shillong had an amazing 10 mile downhill stretch of winding road to a lake resort called 'RI Kynjai'.I spent the afternoon and night there.It was a fancy place.I felt I lowered the tone as I had nothing to wear other than jogging trousers, t-shirt and flip-flops.Met an English guy at the bar from Somerset and spent the night chatting with him.First proper discussion I've had in weeks.Made some alterations to the positional set-up of the bike during the afternoon and since my aching right calf has stopped.
The following day, I continued the mostly downhill ride to Guwahati which is the capital of Assam, (Assam is like a county).People I'd met previous said it was a great city and spoke of it with  a lot of pride.It done nothing for me and I left early the following morning.Finding my way out the city was difficult.Had to ask for directions at every turning point, but people are always happy to help.Since leaving the hills the scenery and people have become more like what I 'd previously seen when in Bangladesh.The roads are now busier and the crowds have returned.
A lot of the small towns I've been stopping in have great night markets, each stall dimly lit by candle or a hanging light bulb.Its a nice way to rest the legs after riding, to stroll around a market in the evening, and as it's dark and usually quite cold I can wear my jacket hood up, and nobody really notices me.I'm like the invisible man, compared to the day times on the bike, where the celebrity status continues.I've been invited to people's homes for food on a couple of occasions where piles of people gather and watch me eat.One guy was upset cos I didn't have time to go and meet his girlfriend so he asked me to talk to her over the phone!
The roads surfaces have been really poor in a lot of areas.Stretches for 10 miles at a time where trucks and buses crawl along, nose to tail at 5mph weaving and navigating around all the pits and pot holes.Motorbikes, cyclists and anything else on the roads just have to slot in where they can.It becomes very tiring, like 'off-road' riding.I've had to deflate some of the tyre pressure cos the continual impacts are too much through the wrists and back.
Been suffering from a bit of a cold through my stay in Siliguri where I rested for a day.I asked the hotel manager to direct me to the nearest chemist.He insisted on one of his staff showing me where it was.It was only half a mile up the road, I didn't need an escort.After the chemist I spotted a shopping mall and tried explaining to the helper that I was going for look round there and that he should go back.He spoke no English and didn't understand.He stopped with me the whole time as I just slowly wandered round window shopping.I couldn't shake him off.Each time I said 'you go back' he just look at me blank.

Had a good week of riding down from Siliguri heading towards Calcutta.The road surface has been variable.A lot has been typically poor, but the majority has been fresh laid tarmac, where the cycling is easy and I'm able to cover a lot of ground in a lot more comfort.Me knees have caused a little discomfort at times, especially after some of the longer days in the saddle, but no long term pain seems to be settling in.I'm still stretching daily as Dave (Physio) suggests.
Been having to stay in some real shabby places, which seems to be the score whilst crossing wide areas between the big city's.One night, in 'Kishanganj' I had next to no sleep at all.The hotel had no windows and was positioned next to a highway flyover and a railway station. There were sounding horns continually throughout the night (the bus/lorry horns out here last about 5 seconds and sound like fair ground ride music or amusement arcades)and the train announcement tannoys were so loud it felt like I was sitting on the platform.I was like a bear with a sore head getting ready to leave in the morning.My room was on the third floor, and when one of the staff came skipping around whistling and singing I felt like toppling him over the balcony.A real heavy days riding followed, but had more luck with a decent guest house the following evening.

Starting to get annoyed with other bike riders.Every day half a dozen, minimum, on separate occasions draw up next to me (and once they're there your sought of trapped.I can't out pace them and run away, and if I stop they'll just stop as well) and fire the same old questions.What your country?Where you go?What your name?How long you been here? ect, ect.When I was reading other peoples blogs for research who'd done similar trips to this they'd said they also got really annoyed by the same thing.I didn't understand at the time of reading, thought they were unreasonable but I understand it now.It's like 'Chinese water torture'.I think the repetition must just drive you made.Like a new song you love on the 1st time of hearing, but grow to hate because the radio over play it.Starting to think keeping my patients is gonna be more of a challenge than the riding itself.Finding it very difficult cause I'm getting angry with myself rather than the person initiating it.See how it goes over the coming weeks I guess.Didn't prepare myself for people showing an interest and being friendly to be a problem when I was planning for every thing that could happen out here.

Arrived in Calcutta which on first impressions seems a pretty lively place.Not much different from most the big towns I've passed through, just on a larger scale.I'm gonna rest for a few days so I'll have a good look round and see what the place has to offer.The ride in was exciting and took over 3hrs from the outskirts to reach the centre.

Wednesday 15 January 2014

Blog 2. India. Sunday 5th to Wed 15th January



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SRIMONGAL-Barleka-Karimanj-Silchar-Retzawl-Haflong-Dehangi-Umrangso-Jowai-Nyon'mai-SHILLONG.

Ride time:42hrs
Distance:341 miles
Total Distance:493 miles.

Sore an elephant in the street the other day which was pretty amazing.Gave the guy riding it some money which the elephant passed with its trunk.
Crossed over into India on Jan 6th.Very slow painful process.Took an hour of filling in forms either side of the boarder.
India seems just as chaotic, but English I think more broadly spoken.
Everyone in India very interested in my trip.The manager of the hotel my first night, bought me drinks and dinner with his mates and wouldn't take no money, room was free of charge and he directed me to a place for lunch the following day where I also couldn't pay.I'm getting pulled over a dozen times a day in some areas for people to have there photo with me.When I stop in a town I sometimes have people queuing up.I don't know if there genuinely interested in the trip or just want a photo with a white guy?
Had a rest day in Silchar.Made some friends there who showed me around their homes, cooked me food and showed me where they drink.Had a great time with them.One of them lives in Mumbai so should be able to meet again when I finish.
Moved into the Hills on the 9th.First tough riding conditions I've had.Long climes and very poor road surfaces.A lot of the riding was like 'off-road' terrain.Loose gravel, rocks, deep pits, and sand.Each passing truck left a train of dust so thick you couldn't see.
The scenery is changing for the better and the chaotic towns are now peaceful tribal villages.Tried to camp but was collared by to guys.They spoke a little English and said they'd put me up in there village for the night.They insisted on pushing my bike, which ain't easy, as we walked for 20minutes.The village, like all I'd seen in the hills was very basic, just a few dozen wooden huts made of bamboo with thatched roofing.I walked round the village with 'Singer' my new mate that night, čand spent the evening with his family.It's dark by 5pm and gets quite cold so everyone has fires inside for warmth.There's no running water, and electricity only comes on for a few hours a day, and even then it's temperamental.I let Singer and the local kids play with my Ipad which fascinated them.Singer wants to come to England to earn some decent money.He says they struggle to earn more than £2 a day here.
I played football with the kids in the morning whilst Singer insisted on cleaning my bike.I told him to just clean the chain and gears and not the frame, cos I like to watch the dirt build on the bike as the trip goes on.When I got back the whole bike was gleaming like brand new again.So much gets lost in translation out here, but he was proud of his work.
Moved on to Haflong where I Stayed with Singers brother and family.I forget his  name but he is a religious nutter.Very strong Christian beliefs.He is a talented artist though.He showed me some of his paintings.One of them was a picture of two halfs.One side heaven, and all the 'good things' in life which will help you find your path, and the other side hell with 'evil' things that must be avoided.He had a cinema pictured on the 'evil' side which I challenged him on, and he explained that 'where as it's not directly evil it can lead to evil things'.I just smiled, nodding, thinking, if he new what I get up to on the weekends he'd murder me in my sleep! I left at 12 noon the following day after he'd taken me round town showing me off to all his religious mates like a trophy.I must of met 20 different people for a few minutes at a time durning my short stay with him.One Priest he introduced me to gave me a five hundred page bible.Just the sought of 'small pack, light weight' thing I need to carry on the bike.I wanted to ask him for a tenner so I could 'download' it on 'iBooks' instead, but I don't think he'd of seen the funny side.Jokes aside his family looked after me well and I was greatful.
Had a couple of great nights camping since being in the hills, been lighting small fires, eating dried noodles, cos the're so easy to prepare, and drinking rum.Small bottle of rum cost 40p.
Staying in a good hotel in Shillong at the moment, and will soon be leaving the hills and moving on to Guwati.Be nice to freshen up.Haven't had a good wash for over a week.
Legs feel strong at the moment and suffering no worrying aches whilst riding.Slight muscular pain in right calf but nothing that courses concern.Knees are a little sore climbing stairs but fine on the bike.Fitness strengthening by the day.

Saturday 4 January 2014

Blog 1.Bangladesh.Monday 30th Dec to Fri 3rd Jan


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DHAKA-Narsingdi-Bhairab-Habiganj-SRIMONGAL.

RIDE TIME:18 HRS
DISTANCE:152 MILES.

Been out here a week now and settled into shape nicely.
The weather is perfect for cycling.It's been mid-twenties, each day brilliant sunshine.It cools right down at night.

From starting in Dhaka I've cycled up to Sylhet in the NE stopping in the following towns at night, Narsingdi, Bhairab, Habiganj and Srimongal.The accommodation is limited and has been really basic, costing as low as £2 a night.They're filthy places, so I'm sleeping on my camping mat in sleeping bag.On my first night there was an old man outside the hotel with a rat on a piece of string, like a dog lead.I didn't stroke it.Regularly getting woken through the night by prayers coming from street tannoy systems.
Camping in this region unfortunately doesn't seem to be an option.Although the whole route has been rural and the conditions perfect, I can't escape prying eyes.If anyone sees me pitching a tent they'll soon be over, and crowd will grow in minutes.I can't stop for a 5 minute break without 10-15 people gathering.Someone told me today there's a population of 160 million in Bangladesh, I think I've met most of them.
No tourists out here, which I think impacts well on how your treated by the locals.I never feel like there trying to rip me off.I don't think they've collared on to just how much they could charge for things.The only other westerners I've met were an Italian couple, also touring by bike, and an American Priest who's lived here 40yrs.

Food has been good.Through the day I'm eating lots of pastry and fruit.It's on sale every where street side.
Covered 160 miles up to this point about 40 a day.I've been eased into to it with very flat roads.I've been going slow, averaging 8mph.My knees were my main concern, but have been fine up to this point, although have put them through no real strain, certainly no demanding hill climbs, where I expect pain to settle in.I've been stretching as Dave my Physio advised.
The people out here are great.Very friendly and curious to know all about me.English isn't widely spoken, so our discussions don't last long.
Internet access out here is minimal, so blog updates may be slow.
I intend to cross over into Eastern India over the next week.
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