Blog 5. Wednesday 12th Feb to Friday 28th Feb.

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GODALPUR-Srikakulam-Vishakhapatnam-Anakapalle-Lotugadda-Sileru-Bhadrachalam-Suryapet-Hyderbad-Shadnager-Kurnool-Dharmavaram-BANGALORE.


Ride Time: 88 hrs
Distance: 1000 Miles
Total distance: 2643 Miles

Been a busy few weeks since the last the blog.Had a real variation of scenery and surroundings from crowded beaches to quite hill stations and noisy city's, stopping in places ranging from sleeping on people's floors, offices of army barracks/police stations to 5* cosmopolitan hotels.

Had journalists on motor bikes track me down on half a dozen occasions.Had a short articles written about me in 2 different papers on separate days (Ennadu and Sakshi) and I'm told a radio presenter was talking about my trip on one of the morning shows in a city beach resort I stayed at.Had kids running after me calling my name asking me sign the newspaper one morning.

Spent a few days passing through a selection of beach resorts on the Eastern Coast.Most were a bit overcrowded and not surprisingly a little grubby and unfortunately not possible for me to swim as currents too strong.So not exactly the idyllic beauty of the Mediterranean but still nice to see the ocean after so many long hot, dry, days riding.

Had another stretch of hill station riding which is the first since I first began in early January in the NE States.This time across the Eastern Ghats.Felt pretty remote for a few days, passing through very small villages where the locals just stop and stare at me like I'm an alien.There was nothing in the way lodging, so one night I stayed with a kind family who took me in and slept on their floor, and another night stopped in Police station office.Its not the first time the police have helped me out with overnight stay.People in India have always said to me if I'm stuck for somewhere to stay just go to the local police station and they'll look after you.It's true.Your treated as a special guest.The officers questioned me on how I got into the area and said I was supposed to have a special permit to visit.They said it's heavily guarded due to previous terrorist activity.I was completely unaware.They made loads of phone calls and enquires checking out my ID.There were 'guarded road barriers' dotted around, but they seem to be everywhere in India.I just give them a nod and wiz through before they start asking for photos with me ect.The way I see it, it's up to them to stop and question me, not up to me to stop and ask.Might change my view on that if I'm every shot in the back of the leg for not stopping.
The scenery in the hills is amazing.Dense forest, with loads of Monkeys, bores and big colourful birds.One day I accidentally ran over a snake.It was about 4 ft long I guess.I turned back to take a photo of it, but it started moving along and gathering pace so I spun around sharpish.
Very basic living up in the hills which is interesting to see.The markets here seem to be trading goods for goods, livestock for produce ect instead of money.Sore people hunting with catapults and even a bow and arrow on one occasion.One day I saw a dead goat hanging by rope by its feet from the branch of a tree.Don't know why it had been done.Maybe as bait for another predator I guess.

Time in the hills was followed by a couple of days rest in a 5* hotel in Hyderbad.Found a really decent mountain bike shop (by Indian standards) which was a result.I bought some better lights, so I can now ride when dark as and when necessary and a 'bladder pack' so I can drink and stay hydrated whilst riding.The bladder pack has completely transformed my riding style for the better.I can ride for long periods without stopping just regularly sipping, instead of stopping every 20minutes exhausted guzzling litres by the second.Also managed to get some light weight fingerless gloves which are stopping my hands from burning in the sun.

Had a few long days in the saddle of +10 hrs ride time.The 3 day stint between Hyderbad and Bangalore was testing but as always rewarding once it's over.
I, as politely as possible, tell the majority of passers by I can't stop for questions and photos now days cos it's just slowing me down to much.If I stopped for everyone that asked I'd have to allow an hour or 2 each day.Feel a bit mean for doing it but I'm still managing to sleep at night.

Blog 4 Thursday 30th Jan to Tuesday 11th Feb

CALCUTTA-Kharagpur-Baleswhwar-Panikoili-Puri-GODULPUR.

Ride Time;37.5 HRS
Distance; 405 Miles
Total Distance; 1643 Miles

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Had a week off the bike (30th Jan -5th Feb).Based myself at a good hotel in the heart of Calcutta where the bike was stored safely and took a flight across to Varanasi, which is a city a couple of hundred miles west and well out of my planned cycle route.Varanasi has caught my attention for years.I'm told its the most sacred place for Hindus in the whole of India, and the Ganges river which runs through the centre of the city is the heart of some of the most incredible scenes ever.The 'Ghats'  ,which are basically stone steps which lead down to the river, run along the bank for miles are full of life and activity, mainly people washing and doing their laundry, but also praying, singing, practicing yoga and well, just chilling out really, (and of cause dozens of cows, buffalo and stray dogs, which are just everywhere you go in India).You can hire a rowing boat and just slowly glide along watching it all unfold for a couple of quid an hour (with somebody rowing for you).For Hindus, being cremated on the Ghats and having your ashes spread in the Ganges river is the holiest of ways to 'move on'.I'm told there are buildings full of the elderly who come from all across india to basically just wait to die, for the privilege of being in close proximity and able to be cremated in this fashion.You can watch the cremations from as close as you'd like to get.They say they burn several hundred bodies a day, each one taking a few hours.In the area I was watching there was half a dozen fires going at any one time.The families of the deceased stand and watch the whole procedure from start to finish as the guys that work there poke and prod at the burning body's like a jacket potato in tin foil, making sure they burn proper.Pretty grim stuff, but fascinating to see.



Staying in Calcutta gave me the chance to unwind a little from the riding and get organised by buying a few odds and ends that I struggle to get whilst on the road.Bought a SIM card for my IPhone which is good as I now have internet access all the time.
I didn't find Calcutta particularly interesting.As mentioned before, to me it was the same as hundreds of other towns I'd past through, just on a larger scale.As tourists here are not uncommon, you get a lot of hassle and fuss from touts and people trying to 'help you out'.Gets a bit tiring consistently telling them to politely go away.Once you've shaken one off your back another pounces straight back on.
I moved away from the tourist zone for my final couple days to a 'home stay' which was run by a great guy called Rajarshi (indianvoyagers@yahoo.in) this cost me a fraction of the price, was located in a more residential area and gave a better outlook of the working class people.Rajarshi is an expert of Indian geography and I'm lucky to be able to store his contact number in case of any problems.

Since leaving Calcutta I've been continuing south along the coast.It's getting hotter each day the further south I pass.I miss the cool evenings of Northern India.My big puffer jacket is now stored away at the bottom of the panniers and I get rooms with AC when ever possible.Cant be the invisible man anymore which is a shame.I'm trying to deal with the heat whilst riding by leaving at sunrise (6am) and maximising the cooler hours of the day.By 10am it's roasting.I 'm generally stopping and getting out the sun between 12 and 2pm.By 3pm it starts to cool a little and becomes more tolerable.Drinking a lot more now as well,(not alcohol). Think I'm getting through 10litres+ a day whilst riding.Starting to wish I bought my 'camel back' with bladder and drinking hose, as sometimes I'm continually stopping for water and it breaks the rhythm. My mouth seems to completely dry out within about 20 minutes of riding during hotter parts of the day.

My legs are still going strong.Been giving no trouble at all actually since leaving Calcutta.My arms are starting to ache though which I don't really understand.The pain is through the elbows.Nothing serious, just a niggle that will probably pass.Gonna have to start covering the backs of my hands whilst riding cos they get so burnt.I coat them in 'factor 50 Sun Block but it seems to have no effect.

Had an incredible days riding between Puri and Godalpur.The whole route pretty  much was narrow paths with no traffic at all (other than the occasional motor bike), passing through a district of hundreds of lakes.I had to cross part of the area on a small fishing boat.The whole route was scattered with tiny wooden villages where the locals were net fishing and farming with water buffalo.It was nice to have the country side scenery back cos the 4 days previous had just been 'head down pedalling' along busy national highways.

Writing this blog from a long golden beach in Godalpur, but the scene being ruined by 3 dogs tearing apart the head and legs off a huge sea turtle that's been washed up on the beach.

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Blog 3. Thursday 16th to Wed 29th January. Shillong to Calcutta.

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SHILLONG-Ri Kynjai-Guwhati-Barpeta-Kokrajhai-Alipur Duar-Jalpaiguri–Siliguri-Kishanganj-Raiganj-Malda-Baharampur-Krishnanager-CALCUTTA.

Ride time: 69 HRS
Distance: 745 MILES
Total distance: 1,238 MILES

From leaving the hill top town of Shillong had an amazing 10 mile downhill stretch of winding road to a lake resort called 'RI Kynjai'.I spent the afternoon and night there.It was a fancy place.I felt I lowered the tone as I had nothing to wear other than jogging trousers, t-shirt and flip-flops.Met an English guy at the bar from Somerset and spent the night chatting with him.First proper discussion I've had in weeks.Made some alterations to the positional set-up of the bike during the afternoon and since my aching right calf has stopped.
The following day, I continued the mostly downhill ride to Guwahati which is the capital of Assam, (Assam is like a county).People I'd met previous said it was a great city and spoke of it with  a lot of pride.It done nothing for me and I left early the following morning.Finding my way out the city was difficult.Had to ask for directions at every turning point, but people are always happy to help.Since leaving the hills the scenery and people have become more like what I 'd previously seen when in Bangladesh.The roads are now busier and the crowds have returned.
A lot of the small towns I've been stopping in have great night markets, each stall dimly lit by candle or a hanging light bulb.Its a nice way to rest the legs after riding, to stroll around a market in the evening, and as it's dark and usually quite cold I can wear my jacket hood up, and nobody really notices me.I'm like the invisible man, compared to the day times on the bike, where the celebrity status continues.I've been invited to people's homes for food on a couple of occasions where piles of people gather and watch me eat.One guy was upset cos I didn't have time to go and meet his girlfriend so he asked me to talk to her over the phone!
The roads surfaces have been really poor in a lot of areas.Stretches for 10 miles at a time where trucks and buses crawl along, nose to tail at 5mph weaving and navigating around all the pits and pot holes.Motorbikes, cyclists and anything else on the roads just have to slot in where they can.It becomes very tiring, like 'off-road' riding.I've had to deflate some of the tyre pressure cos the continual impacts are too much through the wrists and back.
Been suffering from a bit of a cold through my stay in Siliguri where I rested for a day.I asked the hotel manager to direct me to the nearest chemist.He insisted on one of his staff showing me where it was.It was only half a mile up the road, I didn't need an escort.After the chemist I spotted a shopping mall and tried explaining to the helper that I was going for look round there and that he should go back.He spoke no English and didn't understand.He stopped with me the whole time as I just slowly wandered round window shopping.I couldn't shake him off.Each time I said 'you go back' he just look at me blank.

Had a good week of riding down from Siliguri heading towards Calcutta.The road surface has been variable.A lot has been typically poor, but the majority has been fresh laid tarmac, where the cycling is easy and I'm able to cover a lot of ground in a lot more comfort.Me knees have caused a little discomfort at times, especially after some of the longer days in the saddle, but no long term pain seems to be settling in.I'm still stretching daily as Dave (Physio) suggests.
Been having to stay in some real shabby places, which seems to be the score whilst crossing wide areas between the big city's.One night, in 'Kishanganj' I had next to no sleep at all.The hotel had no windows and was positioned next to a highway flyover and a railway station. There were sounding horns continually throughout the night (the bus/lorry horns out here last about 5 seconds and sound like fair ground ride music or amusement arcades)and the train announcement tannoys were so loud it felt like I was sitting on the platform.I was like a bear with a sore head getting ready to leave in the morning.My room was on the third floor, and when one of the staff came skipping around whistling and singing I felt like toppling him over the balcony.A real heavy days riding followed, but had more luck with a decent guest house the following evening.

Starting to get annoyed with other bike riders.Every day half a dozen, minimum, on separate occasions draw up next to me (and once they're there your sought of trapped.I can't out pace them and run away, and if I stop they'll just stop as well) and fire the same old questions.What your country?Where you go?What your name?How long you been here? ect, ect.When I was reading other peoples blogs for research who'd done similar trips to this they'd said they also got really annoyed by the same thing.I didn't understand at the time of reading, thought they were unreasonable but I understand it now.It's like 'Chinese water torture'.I think the repetition must just drive you made.Like a new song you love on the 1st time of hearing, but grow to hate because the radio over play it.Starting to think keeping my patients is gonna be more of a challenge than the riding itself.Finding it very difficult cause I'm getting angry with myself rather than the person initiating it.See how it goes over the coming weeks I guess.Didn't prepare myself for people showing an interest and being friendly to be a problem when I was planning for every thing that could happen out here.

Arrived in Calcutta which on first impressions seems a pretty lively place.Not much different from most the big towns I've passed through, just on a larger scale.I'm gonna rest for a few days so I'll have a good look round and see what the place has to offer.The ride in was exciting and took over 3hrs from the outskirts to reach the centre.

Blog 2. India. Sunday 5th to Wed 15th January

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SRIMONGAL-Barleka-Karimanj-Silchar-Retzawl-Haflong-Dehangi-Umrangso-Jowai-Nyon'mai-SHILLONG.

Ride time:42hrs
Distance:341 miles
Total Distance:493 miles.

Sore an elephant in the street the other day which was pretty amazing.Gave the guy riding it some money which the elephant passed with its trunk.
Crossed over into India on Jan 6th.Very slow painful process.Took an hour of filling in forms either side of the boarder.
India seems just as chaotic, but English I think more broadly spoken.
Everyone in India very interested in my trip.The manager of the hotel my first night, bought me drinks and dinner with his mates and wouldn't take no money, room was free of charge and he directed me to a place for lunch the following day where I also couldn't pay.I'm getting pulled over a dozen times a day in some areas for people to have there photo with me.When I stop in a town I sometimes have people queuing up.I don't know if there genuinely interested in the trip or just want a photo with a white guy?
Had a rest day in Silchar.Made some friends there who showed me around their homes, cooked me food and showed me where they drink.Had a great time with them.One of them lives in Mumbai so should be able to meet again when I finish.
Moved into the Hills on the 9th.First tough riding conditions I've had.Long climes and very poor road surfaces.A lot of the riding was like 'off-road' terrain.Loose gravel, rocks, deep pits, and sand.Each passing truck left a train of dust so thick you couldn't see.
The scenery is changing for the better and the chaotic towns are now peaceful tribal villages.Tried to camp but was collared by to guys.They spoke a little English and said they'd put me up in there village for the night.They insisted on pushing my bike, which ain't easy, as we walked for 20minutes.The village, like all I'd seen in the hills was very basic, just a few dozen wooden huts made of bamboo with thatched roofing.I walked round the village with 'Singer' my new mate that night, čand spent the evening with his family.It's dark by 5pm and gets quite cold so everyone has fires inside for warmth.There's no running water, and electricity only comes on for a few hours a day, and even then it's temperamental.I let Singer and the local kids play with my Ipad which fascinated them.Singer wants to come to England to earn some decent money.He says they struggle to earn more than £2 a day here.
I played football with the kids in the morning whilst Singer insisted on cleaning my bike.I told him to just clean the chain and gears and not the frame, cos I like to watch the dirt build on the bike as the trip goes on.When I got back the whole bike was gleaming like brand new again.So much gets lost in translation out here, but he was proud of his work.
Moved on to Haflong where I Stayed with Singers brother and family.I forget his  name but he is a religious nutter.Very strong Christian beliefs.He is a talented artist though.He showed me some of his paintings.One of them was a picture of two halfs.One side heaven, and all the 'good things' in life which will help you find your path, and the other side hell with 'evil' things that must be avoided.He had a cinema pictured on the 'evil' side which I challenged him on, and he explained that 'where as it's not directly evil it can lead to evil things'.I just smiled, nodding, thinking, if he new what I get up to on the weekends he'd murder me in my sleep! I left at 12 noon the following day after he'd taken me round town showing me off to all his religious mates like a trophy.I must of met 20 different people for a few minutes at a time durning my short stay with him.One Priest he introduced me to gave me a five hundred page bible.Just the sought of 'small pack, light weight' thing I need to carry on the bike.I wanted to ask him for a tenner so I could 'download' it on 'iBooks' instead, but I don't think he'd of seen the funny side.Jokes aside his family looked after me well and I was greatful.
Had a couple of great nights camping since being in the hills, been lighting small fires, eating dried noodles, cos the're so easy to prepare, and drinking rum.Small bottle of rum cost 40p.
Staying in a good hotel in Shillong at the moment, and will soon be leaving the hills and moving on to Guwati.Be nice to freshen up.Haven't had a good wash for over a week.
Legs feel strong at the moment and suffering no worrying aches whilst riding.Slight muscular pain in right calf but nothing that courses concern.Knees are a little sore climbing stairs but fine on the bike.Fitness strengthening by the day.

Blog 1.Bangladesh.Monday 30th Dec to Fri 3rd Jan

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DHAKA-Narsingdi-Bhairab-Habiganj-SRIMONGAL.

RIDE TIME:18 HRS
DISTANCE:152 MILES.

Been out here a week now and settled into shape nicely.
The weather is perfect for cycling.It's been mid-twenties, each day brilliant sunshine.It cools right down at night.

From starting in Dhaka I've cycled up to Sylhet in the NE stopping in the following towns at night, Narsingdi, Bhairab, Habiganj and Srimongal.The accommodation is limited and has been really basic, costing as low as £2 a night.They're filthy places, so I'm sleeping on my camping mat in sleeping bag.On my first night there was an old man outside the hotel with a rat on a piece of string, like a dog lead.I didn't stroke it.Regularly getting woken through the night by prayers coming from street tannoy systems.
Camping in this region unfortunately doesn't seem to be an option.Although the whole route has been rural and the conditions perfect, I can't escape prying eyes.If anyone sees me pitching a tent they'll soon be over, and crowd will grow in minutes.I can't stop for a 5 minute break without 10-15 people gathering.Someone told me today there's a population of 160 million in Bangladesh, I think I've met most of them.
No tourists out here, which I think impacts well on how your treated by the locals.I never feel like there trying to rip me off.I don't think they've collared on to just how much they could charge for things.The only other westerners I've met were an Italian couple, also touring by bike, and an American Priest who's lived here 40yrs.

Food has been good.Through the day I'm eating lots of pastry and fruit.It's on sale every where street side.
Covered 160 miles up to this point about 40 a day.I've been eased into to it with very flat roads.I've been going slow, averaging 8mph.My knees were my main concern, but have been fine up to this point, although have put them through no real strain, certainly no demanding hill climbs, where I expect pain to settle in.I've been stretching as Dave my Physio advised.
The people out here are great.Very friendly and curious to know all about me.English isn't widely spoken, so our discussions don't last long.
Internet access out here is minimal, so blog updates may be slow.
I intend to cross over into Eastern India over the next week.

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